Max Mara, a brand synonymous with no-nonsense style and camel coats, recently showcased a bold departure from its usual aesthetic with a display of very short shorts at the Palace of Caserta near Naples. The inspiration behind this unconventional choice stemmed from the 1949 Italian film “Riso Amaro” and the iconic image of Silvana Mangano in damp shorts and stockings.
Ian Griffiths, the designer behind Max Mara, drew inspiration from the cinematic representation of women in postwar Italy, aiming to empower real women through his designs. The collection paid homage to the era’s style icons like Sophia Loren, emphasizing the shift in the portrayal of women’s sexuality and agency in Italian cinema.
While camel coats remained a staple in the show, the inclusion of pyjamas-as-daywear and flat tassel brogues added a touch of rebellion and social commentary to the collection. Griffiths raised questions about the glamorization of Naples’s postwar poverty, highlighting the fine line between art’s truth and fashion’s fantasy.
The show marked the end of the cruise season, a tradition that has evolved from showcasing yacht attire to offering a post-Christmas indulgence for fashion enthusiasts. Max Mara, a key player in the fashion industry, capitalized on this opportunity to flex its brand muscles and engage with a global audience.
Founded in 1951, Max Mara revolutionized ready-to-wear fashion for the middle class, offering a more affordable yet sophisticated option compared to luxury brands. The brand’s clean and powerful aesthetic has resonated with women in positions of influence, exemplified by Nancy Pelosi’s iconic red coat moment in 2018.
Griffiths’s approach to designing for women as individuals, rather than objects of desire, reflects a broader shift in the fashion industry towards inclusivity and empowerment. By drawing on iconic figures like Mangano and Loren, Max Mara’s collection celebrates femininity with dignity and grace.
As the fashion world continues to evolve, brands like Max Mara play a crucial role in shaping cultural narratives and redefining traditional standards of beauty and style. Through a blend of fantasy and reality, fashion serves as a medium for self-expression and empowerment, transcending boundaries and inspiring women to embrace their individuality.
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