Ultra-fast fashion has become a dominant force in Europe, driven by Chinese giants like SHEIN and Temu. These platforms flood the market with cheap, low-quality clothing, reshaping consumer habits and challenging Europe’s circular economy. Despite claims of sustainability, the reality is excessive waste, overconsumption, and environmental harm.
In 2023, SHEIN reported a 45% increase in greenhouse gas emissions, highlighting the ecological impact of ultra-fast fashion. The sheer volume of daily shipments by these companies raises concerns about customs checks, tax avoidance, and product safety oversight. Instances of chemical safety violations and toxic substances in clothing have been uncovered, underscoring the risks posed by unchecked imports.
European textile producers and retailers are struggling to compete with these fast fashion giants. Companies like H&M are feeling the pressure, leading to legal disputes over copyright infringement. The influx of low-value imports is causing established brands to restructure or shut down, jeopardizing Europe’s green transition and circular economy goals.
Furthermore, the environmental consequences of ultra-fast fashion are dire. Garments made from synthetic fibers like polyester release microplastics, contributing to pollution and landfill waste. Textile sorters are overwhelmed by the influx of unworn clothing that lacks resale or recycling value, undermining efforts to promote sustainability.
EuRIC Textiles is advocating for policy action to address these challenges and enhance textiles’ circularity by 2030. Measures such as Extended Producer Responsibility schemes, ecodesign requirements, and consumer education initiatives are crucial to combat greenwashing and ensure a level playing field. Removing the €150 duty exemption for e-commerce items is seen as a critical step toward restoring fairness and strengthening market surveillance.
Euroactiv supports broader initiatives to regulate Chinese ultra-fast fashion imports, including handling fees and waste management charges. The EU has existing tools and directives to address these issues, but enforcement and political will are essential to drive meaningful change. The urgency to act is clear, as the damage caused by ultra-fast fashion continues to mount.
In conclusion, Europe must close regulatory loopholes, enforce existing rules, and prioritize sustainability in the fashion industry. The future of textiles in Europe hinges on decisive action to counter the negative impacts of ultra-fast fashion and safeguard the circular economy for generations to come.
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